How to Layout Your Ceiling Tile Project
There are two main choices for any new ceiling tile project: Will your new ceiling have one pattern across the entire ceiling or will it have an elaborately tiled center surrounded by a border using filler? Filler is primarily used with tin ceiling tiles and faux tin tiles. The more elaborate center may be framed with decorative trim or simply bordered with a space of filler tiles or panels.
No matter what kind of layout you are planning there are a few basics that apply to any layout: Cut tiles should not be less than one half tile width. Cut tiles on the width of the room should be the same size on both sides of the width – same for the length. Cut tiles on the length of the room may be a different width than the cut tiles on the width of the room, but always the same size at opposite end of the room. Cut tiles are only used around the edges of a ceiling except tiles cut to fit around fixtures. It is always better to remove fixtures before mounting tiles, but in the case of a fixture that cannot be removed, a tile can be cut carefully to fit around the fixture. Most important rule: Always be sure that your project meets your local building code and safety regulations. Any time you are working on a ladder and using solvent based adhesives, it is important to have proper ventilation. Carefully follow all directions included with the materials you are working with. Avoid distractions to work safely.
For a typical ceiling tile layout, get a sheet of graph paper and “fit” the full sized tiles in the center of your room, leaving the edges for cut tiles. If you have measured your room and chosen your tiles you will know how many tiles you need by using the calculator for your chosen tile size. On the graph paper you can confirm the number of tiles you’ll need as well as the size and number of cut tiles. Ceiling tiles are available in different sizes, so be sure you are working with the right size to avoid errors. This basic layout is the most commonly used layout.
Another choice for tin and faux tin ceilings is to center your main pattern in the center of the room and run a border of filler around the center. The filler tiles or panels can match your tiles but with a less elaborate design; it can really set off the center of your ceiling. The less elaborate filler border is much easier to finish than cutting and fitting individual tiles. Filler comes in rolls and can be cut easily with scissors or razor knife for a professional looking ceiling. Cornices give the edges a finished look and this layout can be used for flat ceilings or ceilings with a raised or lowered center.
Ideas for Bold Designs
To build lowered areas, plywood is attached to the sections to be lowered and is attached to the original flat ceiling with attached lumber. Your local building codes may have specific regulations concerning this type of construction, so always check local codes before ordering materials. If you do the work yourself, be sure that the existing ceiling structure can bear the additional weight or look into the use of lightweight styrofoam structural panels for your custom designs. You need to keep in mind the weight and mounting methods of the materials you have selected to work with. Tin, and other metals will be significantly heavier than PVC Faux Tin Tiles and Styrofoam ceiling tiles.
For those who are very confident of their skills, this type of layout can create classically stunning ceiling effects. The central section of the ceiling is done leaving a wider border that is finished with another row of ceiling tiles around the border and the space between the center and edges is completed with filler tiles or panels. Using molding trim to frame the different areas really sets it off and creates a breathtaking look for any room. Adding different levels and custom lighting can take your ceiling design to new heights.
Whether your ceilings are plain or fancy be sure to do your research and planning beforehand to avoid delays and problems during installation. It may take an extra week, but you will be certain how your ceiling will look in the end. These are only suggestions, many rooms may have alcoves or sloped ceilings that require different layouts. Measuring is most important, but without a layout plan it would be like setting off on a trip without a map. Don’t skip steps and you will have a professional looking ceiling at a fraction of the cost of hiring professionals to do it for you. See our additional pages about measuring if your rooms are not square or rectangular or if your ceiling is not flat.
One 70 year old lady we know got tired of waiting for workmen and did her own bathroom ceiling – so take heart, you can do a great job if you put your mind to it.